In our Time Capsule series, we highlight an esteemed restaurant, hotel, or landmark that has remained largely unchanged through the years. This week, we explore Hotel Jerome in Aspen, Colorado.
THEN
In 1889, upon the inaugural welcome of guests at the Hotel Jerome, Aspen thrived as a bustling center for mining activities. Over two hundred attendees, including individuals hailing all the way from Paris, celebrated with an elaborate pre-Thanksgiving evening gala within the confines of the town’s sole dance hall.
Though most structures in American mining towns were typically simple log cabins or modest false-fronted stores, the Jerome adopted an architectural approach reminiscent of the Gilded Age rather than the typical Wild West aesthetic. Constructed with a striking red brick and sandstone façade adorned with elegant Victorian interiors, this building featured 92 rooms along with 15 bathrooms equipped with both hot and cold running water. Additional amenities included a spacious billiard hall and a well-appointed barbershop. Notably, it was among the earliest constructions west of the Mississippi River to be fitted with electric lighting.
However, this enthusiasm was short-lived. Just 11 months after opening, Jerome B. Wheeler, who inherited the ownership from Macy’s family, decided to sell the property. In 1893, when Congress abolished the Sherman Silver Purchase Act, the value of silver crashed dramatically. This led both the town and the structure into a state of deterioration.
During the 1940s, Chicago businessman Walter Paepcke along with his spouse Elizabeth stumbled upon the nearly abandoned settlement. They refurbished the dilapidated inn with plans to transform Aspen into a contemporary skiing and cultural destination. Their restored accommodations attracted not only legendary skiers but also celebrities such as Gary Cooper and Lana Turner. Later, during the latter part of the '60s, Hunter S. Thompson—the pioneer of Gonzo journalism—used the Jerome’s bar as an impromptu campaign headquarters when he famously ran for sheriff; this was at a time when he gained considerable attention.
NOW
Even after decades of dormancy, numerous original features of this grand lady—the likes of a call board from around 1889 and an impressive carved oak staircase—still stand remarkably intact.
In 1946, a renovation shifted the iconic J-Bar from one end of the lobby to the opposite side. Over time, the atmosphere within transformed towards a more Western cowgirl/cowboy style rather than maintaining its Victorian essence. However, nothing else in the city encapsulates the true spirit of "Old Aspen" like sitting at the bar for a cold drink.
In 2012, another significant overhaul occurred when the Auberge Resorts Collection assumed control. Despite being newly renovated, the guestrooms exude historical authenticity through their elegant furnishings featuring rich leather pieces. The property boasts amenities such as a cozy spa and an exclusive restaurant offering refined Colorado-inspired dishes prepared by a series of renowned visiting chefs.
However, the feature that likely draws the most visitors could be the chic Living Room lounge, located adjacent to the lobby and considered one of Aspen’s top locations for post-ski activities and people-watching.
The real-estate boom has replaced the silver trade, and billionaires, the mining barons. But the Jerome remains a palimpsest: a place to revel in the luxuries of modern Aspen and the best of its past. Says general manager Patrick Davila, “Nothing can replicate the stories that have happened inside these walls.”
The Après Way
You don’t require a lift ticket to partake in 'après ski.' Below are some of the area’s notable traditional meeting spots.
Aspen has undergone significant changes over the years, yet you can still get a sense of its various epochs at the bustling eateries and watering holes scattered throughout the city.
Located within the historic 1904 Aspen Times building, which is now integrated into the Hotel Jerome, the stylish speakeasy called Bad Harriet offers an excellent margarita along with omakase sushi crafted by Chef Kei Yoshino.
In 1988, Little Nell debuted as Aspen’s premier luxury hotel with direct access for skiing enthusiasts. It replaced a former hangout spot for ski bums and now features three trendy (much more polished) venues where visitors can unwind after hitting the slopes. Enjoy an Aperol spritz on the sunlit terrace of one such venue—the Ajax Tavern—located right below the downhill runs of the ski area.
In 1998, celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa launched his namesake restaurant, Matsuhisa Aspen, within a restored mining-period residence. Closeby, you can find The White House Tavern serving distinctive burgers and sandwiches. Also worth visiting is the gastropub Aspen Public House, which features handcrafted cocktails housed in the original first-floor space of the historic Wheeler Opera House from around 1889.
Eager to get away from the bustling city center? Head straight to the Aspen Meadows Resort, an updated icon next to the Roaring Fork River known for its contemporary Bauhaus structures and breathtaking mountain views. Show off your savvy moves by trying some caviar and savoring meticulously mixed martinis at their newest spot, West End Social, during après-ski time—don’t forget space for dinner too.
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