About 35 years of journeying back and forth France Has imparted some wisdom as well: you've got just a 50% probability of getting your ticket inspected on the TGV; youthful French motorists pose the greatest risk; and should you decide to dine at a motorway rest stop, opting for today’s hot specialty dish is preferable.
The key takeaway is that France shines brightest when explored through its smaller towns. While big cities offer vibrant experiences with numerous museums, cathedrals, and specialized macaron shops, they can also be quite taxing. They're wonderful places to see and equally good at providing an escape from urban life. Villages in France rightfully pride themselves on local artisans like bakers and butchers as well as their independent spirit; however, you might find many businesses closing up shop around 7:30 pm.
By contrast, the small town — ranging roughly between 10,000 to about 50,000 people — will provide meals and beverages starting at 10 pm along with various activities to enjoy, ensuring everything remains manageable. Locals tend to get accustomed to visitors and generally have a friendly demeanor. If someone accidentally bumps into you on the sidewalk, expect an apology at minimum.
My roster of beloved tiny towns frequently changes. When I say "beloved," I'm not referring strictly to their aesthetic appeal. Appealing looks alone can be detrimental, attracting artisans like potters and ceramists instead of essential merchants such as grocers. For a small town to truly captivate me, it must possess distinctiveness, carry interesting tales, and seem content with its own existence regardless of tourist presence.
These are my current favorites.
10. St Omer, Pas-de-Calais
Population: 14,661
Recently, Saint-Omer has faced significant challenges — from flooding during the past winter to a fire attack on the Church of the Immaculate Conception in September — making it worthy of attention. Thankfully, offering support here is quite straightforward due to its compact size and inherent dignity. Start with the impressive remains of the St Bertin Abbey or the expansive tiered facade of what was once the Jesuit college. Adjacent stands another monumental structure dating back to the sixteenth century; this building functioned as the English Jesuit College where Catholic boys were educated away from their homeland’s restrictions.
Today, this place accommodates both the Lycée Alexandre Ribot school and an impressively stately public library. The library boasts a wealth of invaluable items such as copies of the Gutenberg Bible and Shakespeare’s First Folio.
This suggests that St Omer also boasts significant cultural assets. The Sandelin Museum currently focuses heavily on Japanese themes, the Italian theater is as elaborately decorated as any true Italophile would desire, and the cathedral presents an excellent display. Deposition by Rubens. Also a 16th-century astrolabe clock. More movingly, it contains the tomb of St Erkembode, the eighth-century Irish bishop of the locality, who walked around his diocese so much that he ended up almost paralysed. Logically, he became the saint beseeched by parents of children with walking difficulties. Thus, his tomb is covered in tiny shoes, left as hope, or thanks, for his intervention.
Thirdly, St Omer boasts exceptional cuisine. You should try beef carbonnade or a dish with three or four types of meat. potjevleesch When it comes to shipping chip orders, you’ve come to the right spot. The nearby brews surely make things better. Be sure to sample some from the Abbaye de Clairmarais brewery.
To stay
Aim for what is reliable and located centrally. Mercure Saint Omer (doubles from £82).
9. St Malo, Brittany
Population: 48,233
Saint-Malo was named after a revered Welsh figure known as Maclou. The port generated substantial wealth—so much so that even King Louis XIV sought financial assistance from them—primarily through commerce with the Indies and Americas, along with extensive privateering activities aimed mainly at undermining English interests. This aligns well with the adventurous spirit one might associate with Welsh influence.
We took our vengeance when the Allied bombing devastated the area in 1944 (Anthony Doerr’s Pulitzer-winning Every Beam of Darkness We Can't See Paints the picture, right? However, here’s the catch: the granite city has been reconstructed inside its fortifications with remarkable flair. Stroll along the 1.2-mile-long walls and observe the intricate maze of hewn stone, which speaks volumes about ancestral might, riches, and mischief. Overlooking everything stands the massive castle, which currently houses an excellent regional history museum.
On the far side lies an expanse of ocean stretching across three directions, featuring beautiful sandy shores where sand yachts abound amidst rocky islets seemingly scattered about at random. One such islet hosts Fort National, while another holds the burial site of the regional author Châteaubriand.
When you return to town, you'll find plenty of bars and eateries equipped to satisfy everyone's social desires, particularly if they crave seafood. The next time you disembark from the ferry at this spot, consider staying rather than rushing elsewhere. Trust me; you won’t regret it.
To stay
The Quic en Groigne It’s a cozy, perfectly situated three-star hotel with very inviting doubles starting at £72.
8. Amboise, Loire Valley
Population: 12,938
Perched high above the vast, tumultuous Loire River, Amboise Castle instills in every visitor—be they royalty or tourists—a sense of regal ambition. Spending time within these walls makes one feel destined for rule, perhaps even over an entire nation like France itself. Throughout history, several kings named Louis, multiple rulers called Charles, along with a pair of individuals named François have come and gone from this castle, sometimes departing to conquer territories abroad before returning with the treasures of the Italian Renaissance.
Francois I welcomed Leonardo da Vinci back – Leonardo made the journey riding on a donkey, with the Mona Lisa In a saddlebag—and set him up at the Clos Lucé manor house across town. The brick-built mansion and its grounds are now filled with reminders of his groundbreaking inventions from centuries ago. Though he had a strong belief in weapons of mass destruction like tanks and machine guns, he also envisioned flying machines, parachutes, the differential gear for changing speeds, and the car jack, along with many other innovations.
Then you might wander around the oatmeal-hued little town, bathed in soft light and reflected grandeur, both royal and fluvial. The old streets are bright with gift and eating possibilities. Should time permit an outing in a traditional riverboat, don’t hesitate. It’s gentle, serene and instructive. I’d go with Millière Raboton just along the river at Chaumont (milliere-raboton.net).
To stay
The manorial Clos d’Amboise serves as excellent preparation for the grand structures you're about to visit (double rooms from £95).
7. Beaune, Burgundy
Population: 20,032
Beaune is rich with historical opulence, situated at the southern tip of both the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune — collectively home to some of the finest vineyard landscapes in Europe. The well-seasoned, whitewashed lanes provide ample chances for dining experiences. jambon persillé , Chaource cheese and beef Bourguignon is something a resolute man cannot easily withstand.
Abundance flourishes here, and appropriately enough, Burgundy’s wine hub stands upon wine—literally: millions of bottles rest in subterranean vaults below. Stop by Bouchard Ainé et Fils to observe this process firsthand and sample the outcomes. The comprehensive narrative encompassing the terrain, individuals, and vintages unfolds within the newly inaugurated Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne. This strikingly cylindrical structure appears as though it's coiling around itself. Within, visitors can explore exhibits detailing how these elements intertwine inside the center. climats These are referred to by the Burgundians as particular sections of vineyards—and then proceeds to narrate the entire story in a modern context.
Next, you should visit the Hospital of Hotel Dieu from the 15th century. This large facility was constructed for impoverished individuals with architectural grandeur reminiscent of a Flemish cathedral; it served as an impressive attempt by a wealthy individual seeking redemption to enter heaven. Encircling a central courtyard, this building stands out both in design complexity and artistic detail compared to many healthcare institutions globally. Its multi-colored, intricately patterned rooftop remains unparalleled in memorability across all of France. Inside, one can find works like those created by Rogier van der Weyden. Last Judgment A polyptych likely offered less comfort than what the patients needed. Guests will also notice enema syringes as large as fuel pumps, suggesting that the so-called golden era had its drawbacks.
To stay
The voco Beaune It looks (and is) as good as new, close to the recently opened Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne; prices start at £87 for double occupancy).
6. Bergerac, Dordogne
Population: 25,774
Bergerac cannot be separated from indulgent enjoyments. And you definitely shouldn't try to do so. Firstly, as the second city of the Dordogne, it boasts France's sole museum dedicated to tobacco. Here, visitors explore not just the local cultivation of weeds like tobacco but delve into its complete 3,000-year saga. Among many other facts, one might discover that under Tsarist rule in Russia, smokers were punished by having their lips removed; in Persia, they faced losing their noses; and in China, such behavior led to capital punishment.
Secondly, serving as a hub for South-West wines, the location boasts a trendy Maison des Vins. This wine bar is nestled within a 17th-century Franciscan Recollects monastery, offering views over the river. Enjoying Bergerac wines while conversing on the riverside terrace can transform even the most laid-back individuals into paragons of civility. Additionally, the bounty of South-West France’s agricultural produce—foie gras, duck confit, truffle-infused dishes, among others—fills both local markets and eateries with flavors from the nearby Dordogne region. My favorite rendition of duck comes courtesy of Chef Klo. L’Authentik — crispy duck meatballs served with spiced gravy).
In winding lanes too tight even for two portly monks side by side, with crooked timber-framed buildings and elegant Renaissance-era homes, Bergerac narrates its story as they cascade down towards the Dordogne River. This waterway has been pivotal in transporting Bergerac’s wines across the globe.
To stay
The Hotel de Bordeaux The eldest establishment in town offers practical accommodations complete with unexpected gardens and exceptionally friendly staff (double rooms starting at £57).
5. Annecy, Haute-Savoie, Alps
Population: 49,232
The world's perception of Annecy remains one of a place far too charming for mere postcards, which is quite accurate indeed. This location offers a captivating blend of canals, covered walkways, and floral-adorned bridges, complemented by expansive green spaces and a serene lake at the forefront, encircled entirely by the majestic Alps. The area features the Château, previously home to the Count of Geneva, alongside the grand Imperial Palace Hotel where notable figures like George VI, Churchill, and Chaplin were guests. Mountains, lakes, and historic stone villages truly create a harmonious setting when combined.
On the contrary, what sticks with me from my time in Annecy is the basilica perched atop the town. Inside a copper container rests Saint François de Sales, who serves as the patron saint for journalists. Additionally, I recall the challenge of navigating an RV—basically, a rolling house—through cobblestone lanes built for donkeys.
Moreover, most crucially – I made sure that regardless of what goes on in Annecy, you can find tartiflette at almost every turn. This single aspect deems the town worthy of Premier League status.
To stay
Just five minutes away from the lake and conveniently located near the city center, this place is ideal. Allobroges Park Hotel It has a reasonable base price in Annecy (starting at £67 for doubles).
4. Mende, Lozère, Occitanie
Population: 12,316
I fell for Mende shortly after falling for one of its young women. First, we roamed the stirring country of France’s emptiest quarter: high, wild, remote, boasting a wolf park and a future mother-in-law, but otherwise forgiving. Then we dropped down to Mende, the bite-sized county capital. The doughty grey town crams in along the River Lot and around a gigantic Gothic cathedral (ordered by local lad Pope Urban V), which rises like a cardinal among curates.
Narrow streets bustle with rosy-cheeked locals coming from mountain hamlets for the market, shopping, administrative tasks, schooling, sports activities, and encounters with non-relatives. Recently observed, Mende has traditionally been a rugged city focused on necessities; however, over the last two decades, it has become more open and vibrant. Stores and thoroughfares now seem like they belong in modern times, and the Hyper U supermarket boasts an impressive array of cheeses—a standout feature among those I've seen—and also excels in its selection of cured meats.
Events progress, yet the echoes of the past persist, particularly around the steepest slopes overlooking the town. Atop these heights stands the hermitage dedicated to Saint Privat, the martyred soul. According to legend, he was thrust off the precipice inside a spiked barrel by marauders led by an individual named Crocus. Thus, it’s wise to approach this site with reverence.
To stay
Make directly for the Hôtel de France Its 21st-century comforts nestled within an 18th-century townhouse (double rooms start at £99).
3. Hyères, Var, Provence
Population: 55,370
Whenever possible, I have lunch at a seaside eatery located just beyond Hyères. My choice is always John Dory accompanied by a bottle of rosé. Under skies filled with the muted yet crystal-clear light typical of the off-season, the sandy shores gently incline toward the ocean. Once finished eating, I inquire whether I could remain here to savor my final glass of wine—perhaps for the next quarter-century?
The coastline of the Var department in Provence fills one with joy. The mountains meet the Mediterranean in a dramatic display of rock formations and forests, occasionally offering secluded coves and beaches. Hyères stands out as an ideal starting point. It boasts numerous palm trees—a delightful sight indeed. Its narrow, winding cobblestone streets ascend sharply, embodying the spirited character typical of a Provençal town.
The resort was the pioneer in France when it came to attracting high-end international tourists—predating destinations like Nice, Cannes, or Biarritz. Wealthy aristocrats from colder regions began arriving in the late 18th century for milder winters, primarily for health reasons at first.
Queen Victoria, who was an admirer, brought together the upper echelons of British society, all of whom found it splendid. These elites demanded amenities such as golf courses, tennis courts, tea rooms, libraries, and even three Anglican churches, along with access to British medical professionals including doctors, dentists, and pharmacists. Prominent artists and authors like Huxley, Kipling, Conrad, and particularly Edith Wharton, flocked here en masse. In the 1920s and 1930s, others would convene at the Villa Noailles, which stood out for its avant-garde design—a cluster of pristine white cubist structures perched atop the hill. Visitors today can go there to honor figures from art history such as Klee, Cocteau, Braque, Dali, and Buñuel.
To stay
Make your way to the boutique (which has 14 rooms). Hôtel Le Méditerranée , close to the harbor. It serves its purpose well ( priced at £70 onwards ).
2. Figeac, Lot, Occitanie
Population: 9,741
For centuries, travelers traversing the Quercy limestone plateau have made their way down to the Célé River and crossed over to Figeac. This practice continues today, adding an extra layer of enjoyment as it nearly didn’t survive. During the 1950s—when misguided ideas dominated city planning—the historic heart of the town faced demolition to accommodate vehicles. However, at the critical juncture, France embraced preservation. Instead of tearing down these ancient buildings that spanned from medieval trade times through the Renaissance period, they were restored and preserved.
Individuals returned to the ancient city center. Revitalization took place. Consequently, one can now meander through narrow lanes and cobblestone pathways, admire stonework arches adorning store fronts, observe open-topped rooms, and spot hidden nooks where cats might hide, all accompanied by the inconsistent playing of flutes heard from a 17th-century window. Additionally, citizens exchange greetings as they make their way towards the bustling Place Carnot market.
Just steps away, Figeac proudly showcases its most famous native son, Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion, who deciphered hieroglyphs. This achievement has led to the creation of an excellent museum dedicated to the evolution of writing, starting with cuneiform scripts. Close by, a replica made of black granite of the Rosetta Stone adorns a modest inner courtyard.
To stay
Try the Hôtel Le Quatorze – petite, independently owned, delightful, and offers great value for money (rooms start at £64).
1. Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Basque Region, New Aquitaine
Population: 14,601
Many years back, Saint-Jean—the intellectual's choice for Biarritz, the most exquisite coastal haven along the French Atlantic—thrived thanks to whaling, cod fishing, and dispatching privateers to harass British vessels. Later on, it transitioned into more maritime leisure activities, though not entirely. The fishing harbor remains lively and noisy, unloading catches rather than millionaires. Further ahead, the arc of the Grande Plage lives up to all expectations of security and summertime enjoyment. More distantly, waves toss around surfers, making the far-off Mediterranean appear somewhat luxurious in contrast.
However, the town also boasts an underlying resilience. The pedestrian streets are lined with essential shops amidst grandiose white residences that have housed many generations. It’s unmistakable who claims ownership of this locale; it certainly isn’t the tourists. Interestingly enough, these visitors once encompassed figures like Louis XIV. In 1660, he arrived here to wed the Spanish Infanta Maria Theresa at the Church of St John the Baptist—now preserved just as it was back then, situated at 11 Rue de l'Eglise. Royalty flocked to the area during the Belle Époque era, when the Basque coastline became a hub for high society. Subsequently, Ravel composed his Bolero over across in Ciboure.
Elegant remnants persist, adding a luster to what the Basques truly excel at: savoring meals, staying out late, discussing tuna and rugby, placing bets on pelota, adorning themselves with berets, crafting cheeses and hams, and nurturing familial bonds that span the world. Many Basque families can trace their lineage back to having a Latin American president somewhere within them.
To stay
Once an icon of Saint Jean, the Madison hotel emerged anew in 2018 and remains as sophisticated and inviting as ever (rooms start at £123).
Five not-so-lovely towns
Please keep in mind: just because a location isn't picturesque, it doesn't imply that it lacks interest or should be overlooked. Quite often, the contrary holds. My background is rooted in industrial Lancashire, so I can attest to this fact. It simply indicates that the postcards may lack allure—does anyone truly care about that?
5. Narbonne Plage
The Languedoc coastline entered the tourism industry relatively later compared to the Provençal coast and the Riviera. As a result, places like Narbonne Plage often exhibit a hastily developed 1960s vibe. The area features apartment complexes lacking exceptional aesthetics alongside makeshift structures and commercial buildings ("chicken nuggets!", "meter-long pizzas," "fashion fusion!") that seem perpetually temporary. To be honest, Narbonne Plage makes an excellent destination for a family vacation, though you won’t find much charm or old-world character here.
4. Alès
Another location that hasn’t fully bounced back since the decline of coal mining wealth. Similar to Decazeville, you find yourself in Alès amidst very pastoral landscapes—often referred to as the "capital of the Cévennes mountains." However, redevelopment efforts haven't been particularly kind to it. While worth seeing, I doubt you'd be eager to remain here for long.
3. Decazeville
The Aveyron is charmingly rustic, except for Decazeville, which was fortuitously situated above a valuable coal deposit but later faced misfortune when the resource ceased being profitable. As a result, the town appears somewhat bewildered, as though it hasn’t fully bounced back from the financial setback.
2. Dunkirk
The great port city has a long, long beach and a heroic history – the two are, of course, associated – but the town has been put back together a little uncertainly after war-time devastation. And the presence of quite so much industry – steel, petrol, electricity – on the fringes doesn’t make it any more picturesque.
1. Fos-sur-Mer
Located on the Mediterranean coast northwest of Marseille, you might expect it to be charming. However, that isn’t the case. The historic part of town is largely overshadowed by one of Europe’s largest industrial areas featuring oil refineries and steel mills. These structures lack aesthetic appeal and can emit unpleasant odors, particularly on unfavorable days.
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