Hawaii's Big Island is wilder and more rugged than its neighbors, making it the ideal destination for an adventurous trip with kids.
Starting from New York City, the journey to Hawaii spans 11 hours. These lengthy daytime hours saw my children, aged seven and ten, engaged in near-constant bickering: over seating arrangements, treats, blankets, headphones; debating who was the first to have their feet touch the other’s side across the armrest. At times, even my spouse Dave and I began questioning whether we might be cursed by an unforgiving deity destined to spend eternity aboard that Airbus A330 with relentless whispers of "Give it back." right now, and glancing at the time left on our seat-back screens for the tenth thousand time.
Within less than two days of arriving in Hawaii, we embarked on an entirely new adventure — one with a decidedly more cooperative atmosphere. The four of us set off into the waters just offshore from Mauna Lani, a resort located in the area. Hawaii Island ’s rugged Kohala Coast. Jet lag had woken us well before sunrise, so we’d joined an early morning paddle in an outrigger canoe led by a staffer named Josiah Kalima-Padillio.
“It’s really important that we all paddle together,” he shouted over his shoulder as we navigated the break and headed out into open water. “In together, out together.” From my seat at the back I looked up to see Stella, our eldest, and Leo, her little brother, rowing away furiously, straining to keep time.
Just as the sun emerged above Mauna Kea—a dormant volcano approximately 30 miles inland and standing nearly 14,000 feet tall—the highest summit in all of Hawaii—we halted. Our outrigger canoe gently swayed with each wave nearby. In this moment, Kalima-Padillio shared how observing sunrise has roots tracing back to the Polynesian settlers who arrived here over a millennium ago. The location we stood upon, surrounded by what Native Hawaiians regard as their five holiest peaks, holds an exceptionally potent energy for such rituals. "Long ago," he continued, "it was thought that being here brought one nearer to deceased relatives and the spiritual realm." He added, "This practice symbolized harmony among people and allowed negative emotions to be cleansed away."
About a few hundred yards off, two humpback whales were frolicking: leaping out of the water and splashing down just like they were equally excited about the sunrise as we were.
As we all paused to catch our breath—surprised at how strenuous rowing could be—he suddenly yelled and gestured towards the skyline. About a few hundred yards out, two humpbacks were frolicking: leaping and plunging seemingly as thrilled with the sunrise as us. Within minutes, another humpback surfaced barely a stone's toss away from our boat; its massive arched body slicing through the waves akin to an upside-down vessel, sleek and gleaming darkly under the morning light.
When we got back to land for breakfast, we felt elated but somewhat tired and eager to lounge by the pool for the remainder of the morning. While changing into our swimwear upstairs in our room, Stella found a hotel pencil next to the bed. Let’s all go paddling together, she read aloud from the writing on one side of the pencil.
During a beach getaway, immersing yourself in the local culture isn’t always straightforward—especially when children are involved. However, at Mauna Lani, they've made it easier for visitors. In addition to organized events such as the morning canoe ride, the property includes Kalāhuipua‘a Historical Park, an expansive 48-acre site where guests can stroll freely without booking ahead or hailing a cab. You could easily amble over in your swimwear after lunch, just as we did that day.
Ethan Souza, a vibrant staff member at Mauna Loni, guided us through the area known as Kalāhuipua‘a. He shared with us that this place was once used by Kamehameha the Great, the first king of unified Hawaii, for maintaining several fishponds meant to supply food for his royal household. Today, seven such ponds remain intact within this serene setting under swaying palms; they're part of a larger space featuring hiking paths, carvings etched into stone, and remnants from an old fishing settlement. Souza enlightened us regarding the advanced aquatic farming techniques employed by early Hawaiians and drew our attention to various inhabitants currently dwelling in the ponds—like eels, barracudas, and notably, some intriguing blowfish.
Mauna Lani also has a cute Hale ‘I‘ike, or house of knowledge, in the main atrium, where kids can take ukulele lessons and learn Indigenous stargazing techniques. We signed up for a lei-making class — though I’ll be honest, I had my doubts about Leo’s enthusiasm for making a necklace out of flowers. Much to everyone’s surprise, he sat down at the long wooden table presided over by Kahoku Hurley, a member of Mauna Lani’s living-culture team, and knocked out a perfect orchid lei in about the time it took the rest of us to tie our starting knots.
The Hale ‘I‘ike was given a makeover in 2020, when Mauna Lani reopened as part of the Auberge Resorts Collection after a $200 million renovation. Built in 1983, the property had, over the decades, become a much-loved island landmark. Fans of the original can rest assured: though it now has a retail branch of Goop, Gwyneth Paltrow’s wellness and fashion brand; a taco truck; and a New York–style deli serving matcha lattes, there remains a satisfying air of 1980s grandeur about the wedge-shaped main building and its towering, palm-filled atrium.
Auberge also maintained another aspect of Canoe House wisely; it remains unchanged. This structure, originally built as a storage shed for canoes (including some supposedly used by Babe Ruth during his vacations here in the '30s), now serves as home to Mauna Lani’s distinguished Japanese-themed eatery established around three decades ago. Locals frequent this place for celebrations like birthdays and anniversaries. On our inaugural evening at the hotel, we quickly grasped what makes it so appealing: watching the sunset paint the sky over the Pacific Ocean imbued everything with an enchanting aura. Particularly memorable was savoring Kauai shrimp served in Japanese curry alongside garlic-fried rice—a meal we often reminisce about even today.
Once our server removed our dishes, she queried, "Is this your inaugural visit to Hawaii?"
Sure," Leo replied nonchalantly. "We likely should have done this a few years back.
Many visits to Hawaii start in Honolulu, and if you're planning to spend a couple of nights in the city, staying at the Royal Hawaiian is almost obligatory. The iconic pink Art Deco resort perched above Waikiki Beach has hosted celebrities like Elvis, Marilyn Monroe, and the Beatles, making it an unmistakable symbol of luxury. When my partner Dave and I flew in from New York—a journey that felt exhausting—our spirits lifted as soon as we stepped onto the lush property, slipped into coordinating pink robes, and let our children frolic in the pool while we sipped piña coladas served in colorful plastic glasses.
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Before we laid eyes on Waikiki Beach, things were different. Our weather-worn vision couldn’t quite grasp what hit us: the calm, sky-hued waters; the glaringly white sands; the towering buildings shimmering along the coastline; and dominating everything else, Diamond Head—a lush green volcano peak so vivid it felt as though it might suddenly spring to life and break into song, reminiscent of something out of a Disney film. Moana.
We could have simply enjoyed the breathtaking views during our two-day stay in Honolulu, but we felt compelled to visit Pearl Harbor. It turned out to be an equally impactful and historic experience, even though we were quite jetlagged when we went there early the following day. After returning to the Royal Hawaiian hotel, we took advantage of nearby shopping malls where we indulged ourselves with poke and shaved ice. Later that same afternoon, thanks to assistance from helpful staff members at the reception area, we arranged surfing classes for Stella and Leo. As they released their energetic spirits into the ocean’s waves, lying still on my lounge chair allowed me to exhale slowly. Indeed, this marked the beginning of true relaxation mode for us; we had finally settled into vacation life.
Hawaii is a region filled with volcanoes, and my children—Leo particularly—are passionate about them. Those who frequently read this publication might recall our volcanic expedition to Pompeii, the historic Italian town razed by Mount Vesuvius, not long ago. The Big Island of Hawaii alone boasts roughly four currently active craters within a territory only slightly more extensive than Connecticut’s size. Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park Located in the southern part of the island, this area is where most of the activity takes place, featuring Mauna Loa and Kīlauea, which are among the most actively erupting volcanoes globally. It was evident that we needed to witness this spectacle.
On Hawaii Island, there's a notable distinction between those who prefer luxurious beach resorts and those drawn to the national parks. Visitors often choose to book a helicopter ride over the volcanoes from their coastal accommodations rather than making the journey themselves. This preference can be somewhat justified for several reasons: accommodation options near the park are limited, the drive requires a few hours, and the winding roads certainly add complexity to the trip.
Related: 15 Top Activities for Families in Hawaii with Children
Volcanoes turned out to be incredibly fun, really thrilling. We lodged at Volcano Rainforest Retreat, which consisted of traditional Japanese-style wooden cabins situated around three miles from the national park, tucked into a dense jungle filled with bamboo and ferns. This experience starkly differed from our stay at Mauna Lani. At this retreat, the children napped on futons laid directly on the floors. Approximately half the days during our visit saw rain, forcing us to dash outside amidst brief breaks in precipitation for dips in the outdoor cedar bathtub surrounded by gardens. In terms of dining experiences, we feasted on Thai cuisine courtesy of Aunty Pon’s, served from a mobile stall parked closeby. Perhaps it was due to the excitement of discovering delicious meals in uncharted territory, but honestly, those servings of green curry and pad thai rivaled some of Thailand’s finest street foods.
The following day, we entered the park carrying two large bottles of water and packing two peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for the children. Our expedition lacked a clear strategy from the start. Initially, our intention was to explore the Nāhuku lava tube first. Upon arrival, however, Leo realized he had envisioned it as being filled with flowing lava. The realization that it was merely a passageway formed by hardened magma eons ago after reaching scorching temperatures up to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit during eruptions proved disappointing, despite this knowledge.
We needed to step up the excitement. Across from the Nāhuku parking lot we saw a sign for a loop that would take us across Kīlauea Iki, a pit crater next to Kīlauea’s main caldera. Three-point-three miles, it read. Could we do it?
“Nah,” said Leo. “It’s too far.”
“Come on Leo, it will be a cool experience,” Stella said.
Dave and I exchanged glances. What did this mature young woman mean by discussing such cool experiences? We really took a liking to her, even though she seemed to have appeared out of nowhere.
"Come on Leo," I said. "Let’s go ahead." So we went; altogether, it summed up to four miles. Considering he was a seven-year-old with inconsistent motivation, this achievement was quite remarkable.
Fair enough, there were indeed diversions. The pit craters can basically be described as enormous depressions in the earth’s surface; thus, we started by climbing down the interior slope, an area teeming with vibrant life—lush foliage and towering plants reminiscent of a primeval forest. Giant prehistoric-looking tree ferns arched overhead after approximately thirty minutes; we reached the bottom of the caldera. Dave consulted his phone: "In 1959, Kīlauea Iki underwent continuous eruptions lasting over a month, propelling molten rock up to 1,900 feet skyward—a truly remarkable event during the last century." Once solidified, this flowing magma created a vast expanse of smooth, ash-like basalt covering roughly 1.7 miles stretching across our path. Ahead lay other trekkers traversing this terrain—they appeared minuscule compared to the colossal crater walls surrounding them.
As we continued walking, we were somewhat intimidated as we occasionally encountered massive fissures in the earth and spots where rocks bulged due to the residual heat from molten lava still active below us. By the time we traversed the entire crater, scaled the opposite side’s walls, and made our way around the rim back to Nāhuku, each one of us was feeling amazing—sweaty, exhausted, and famished yet bonded through the excitement of achieving something together. It truly was an exhilarating adventure.
Following all the excitement of the theme park, it was fitting to conclude our journey back at the beach. The following day, we headed down to the Kona Coast to enjoy our final days at Kona Village. Since I hail from England, I wasn't familiar with this location until it relaunched under the management of the Rosewood Hotels Group in 2023; however, every person in the U.S. I talked to appeared to be well aware of it, having known about it for many years. It didn't take long for me to understand why—it turns out that within Hawaii’s tourist scene, Kona Village holds legendary status.
The tale started in 1965 when a Texas-based oil executive called Johnno Jackson and his spouse, Helen, were cruising through the South Pacific aboard their schooner known as the New Moon. The pair anchored at Ka‘upulehu, an old Polynesian site deserted since the 1930s. The Jacksons took a liking to this location, leasing 81 acres of rocky terrain overlooking the sea, then dedicated several years to building their resort. Since there was no road connectivity, Jackson constructed his own airstrip. In those days, amenities like telephones, clocks, and television sets were absent; visitors resided in traditional hale dwellings—thatched roof structures featuring wood shutters designed to catch the wind breezes. This spot became synonymous with casual elegance, drawing numerous high-profile guests across thirty years—from Jim Morrison during the '70s right through to Steve Jobs around the turn-of-the-century period.
In 2011, the Asian tsunami devastated the resort. With an ardent and deeply committed following, fans were compelled to await Kona Village's reopening for 12 lengthy years. Nevertheless, one can confidently assert that those opting to come back won’t face disappointment. Nowadays, the huts retain their traditional thatched roofs yet feature air conditioning; some even boast personal butler services. New Moon, The one that submerged in Kahuwai Bay during the '60s has been brought back to life as a charming beach bar. A spa integrated within the Ka‘upulehu lava fields allows you to enjoy a massage while looking up at the slopes of Mauna Kea. This represents barefoot luxury version 2.0—laid-back and casual yet equipped with all possible amenities for your comfort.
The focal point is the perfect crescent beach at Kahuwai Bay, which we’d heard was an excellent place for kids to go snorkeling. I asked Brent Imonen, head of the aquatic center, to set us up with the gear one morning, and in we all went. Under the surface the water was a bright, chalky blue. Within about a minute we saw a green sea turtle, just feet away, regarding us disdainfully with its big black eyes before swooping down to the seabed abruptly, flippers outstretched like wings, to nibble at some algae. Around it swam a Finding Nemo —an explosive display of fish, darting around in various shapes, colors, and sizes: Moorish idols, yellow tangs, schools of needlefish, and Hawaii’s tongue-twisting state fish, the humuhumunukunukuapua‘a, also known as the reef triggerfish.
Wow," I remarked to Imonen when we returned our masks and snorkels after about an hour. He beamed and mentioned that a no-take zone established around eight years prior was finally showing positive outcomes. "The conditions below were among the finest on this island.
Approximately 100 spinner dolphins were making their way towards us; their gleaming dorsal fins were almost indistinguishable from the wave tops.
Back on shore, we were eager to delve deeper into the history of Ka‘upulehu. The following morning, after a breakfast that featured an exceptionally memorable dish, lilikoi kouign-amann, A dessert packed with passion-fruit custard (as an aside, Kona Village boasts one of the finest pastry chefs around) led us to explore some petroglyphs etched into the lava fields beneath the resort. According to information provided in a pamphlet, this section of basalt originated approximately 3,000 years ago and has seen human presence over the last thousand years. Throughout those centuries, the inhabitants of Ka‘upulehu created roughly 450 carvings within these rocks. Most of them are visible from a walkway; additionally, there’s a newly established cultural center close by offering further insight into what they symbolize.
“Look,” Leo said, pointing to two small figures etched into the rock. “It’s a brother and sister.”
"It seems like Leo is attempting to aim for my shins with a pool noodle," Stella stated.
We all paused to gaze at these ancient siblings, whose arguments had become inconsequential many years before.
"I asked her if she thought siblings got along in ancient Hawaii," he said.
“I doubt it,” she replied with a sigh.
Before long, it was our final morning at Kona Village, and our last day in Hawaii. With some free time ahead, we requested Imonen to guide us around the headland using an outrigger canoe. It felt like ages since our initial paddling experience at Mauna Lani—so many events had transpired since then. As we glided past the palm-fringed cliffs of Ka‘upulehu, we spotted a few small black-sand bays. Every now and then, Imonen would shout "Hut-Hooo" to indicate when it was necessary to change sides. Suddenly, we noticed something unusual. "Look — eleven o'clock!"
A group consisting of roughly 100 spinner dolphins was making its way toward us, with their gleaming dorsal fins hardly noticeable against the wave tops. Soon enough, they surrounded us, gliding effortlessly through the water nearly soundlessly, only an occasional bottle-nosed one becoming apparent, or perhaps catching a glimpse of an eye now and then. They zipped past incredibly fast; before even two minutes had elapsed, most of them had vanished out of sight.
Imonen turned the canoe around; we needed to head back. And this time he didn’t have to tell us how — we already knew. We picked up our oars and rowed toward the shore, all paddling together.
Oahu
The Royal Hawaiian
A Waikiki Beach classic — part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection — this pink art deco hotel has lush gardens, postcard views, and an unbeatable location.
Pearl Harbor National Memorial
If you're in Honolulu, visiting this World War II memorial, which has since become a national park, is essential. People move around the extensive grounds via timed shuttle buses, and the location can get crowded, so make certain to set aside multiple hours for your exploration.
Hawaii Island
Kona-Kohala Coast
Kona Village, part of the Rosewood Resorts collection
Following its devastation by a tsunami in 2011, this renowned establishment relaunched in 2023. The updated version with 150 rooms boasts enhanced luxury yet retains the casual charm of its predecessor.
Mauna Lani, part of the Auberge Resorts Collection
Since joining the Auberge Resorts Collection in 2020, this iconic resort on the Kohala Coast offers over 300 chic accommodations, along with three swimming pools and a Goop retail outlet. It also features an array of child-oriented facilities and recreational options.
Waimea
The Fish and the Pig
When you're heading up to Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, be sure to pull over at this hidden gem of a BBQ place favored by locals for some lunch. Their pulled-pork sandwich ranks among the finest dishes I sampled during my time in Hawaii.
Volcano
Volcanic Rainforest Getaway Inn & Bistro
A group of traditional Japanese-style vacation homes equipped with self-catering facilities and open-air hot spring baths can be found in the town of Volcano, just a 10-minute drive away from the entrance to the park.
Auntie Pon's Thai Food Truck
Authentic Thai food served, in huge portions, from a truck in the parking lot of Volcano’s Cooper Center.
Hilo
The Booch Bar Hilo
You’ll find downright delicious plant-forward cuisine at this casual Keawe Street spot.
Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden
It’s worthwhile taking the 45-minute diversion from Volcanoes to explore this beautiful garden set among the cliffs and waterfalls of the Hamakua Coast.
Sig Zane
The top-notch Hawaiian shirts at this stylish shop in Hilo serve as desirable keepsakes.
A version of this story first appeared in the November 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline "The Wildest Isle ."
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