Many British travelers believe they are familiar with Tuscany And still, many people haven't visited—or perhaps aren't even aware of—the Lunigiana. In truth, few travelers of any kind have discovered this place, which adds to its charm as a tiny yet enchanting area.
It’s a different Tuscany — varying heritages, traditions, accents, and cuisines — nestled in the farthest north part of the area, divided by the River Magra and sandwiched between the Apuan Alps to the south (the source of Carrara marble), the Apennine Mountains to the east, and the Ligurian Riviera to the west.
Once a fiercely contested territory, today Lunigiana remains a peaceful retreat with numerous castles scattered across the area serving as reminders of its tumultuous history. During the 13th century, this land was under the control of the distinguished Malaspina clan; their fortresses at Fosdinovo and Monti are definitely worthy of exploration. Also not to be missed is the Piagnaro Castle located in Pontremoli, which houses an exquisite Baroque cathedral alongside it. This castle additionally features a specialized museum exhibiting an intriguing array of sandstone stelae—abstract human forms sculpted during ancient eras.
Given its name, I was expecting a lunar landscape. Not a bit of it: the word Lunigiana is reputedly derived from the particular way the moon is framed by the white-peaked mountains. Far from arid, it’s a place of valleys, rivers, streams, and steep hills clothed in chestnut forests.
Take one of the winding paths through this area, and you'll find yourself in one of its tranquil hamlets, though numerous settlements have seen their populations dwindle recently. During springtime, the verges and slopes come alive with an abundance of wildflowers such as orchids and poppies; then, when summertime begins, swarms of fireflies illuminate the nights with their shimmering yellow-green light, providing a refreshing contrast to the daytime warmth which is frequently tempered by cool breezes from the mountainside.
Food festivals around this time include the onion festival in Treschietto, where the local white-fleshed, red-skinned onions are served in various culinary guises. In autumn, meanwhile, season of the all-important chestnut harvest, mushrooms and truffles are also unearthed in the woods and the colours turn from various shades of green to aubergine and amber.
My most recent visit to Lunigiana was last autumn. For culture and a dose of Renaissance Tuscany, we made day trips (an hour away) to Pisa, Lucca and the five villages of the Cinque Terre (Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore) on the coast. For the most part, though, we stayed put and – to be perfectly frank – ate.
In the Lunigiana, tradition, simple living and – crucially for most visitors – wonderful local cuisine are its best attributes. Testaroli (a thin, spongy type of pasta usually served with pesto sauce); torta d’erbe (green vegetables in a pastry crust); panigacci (small flatbreads); chestnut flour; chestnut honey; olive oil and local wine (lighter than the Super Tuscans and very drinkable): these are some of the highlights of the region.
Accommodation in such a hilly and relatively little visited area is somewhat limited: a handful of good hotels, some characterful agriturismi and a selection of rental villas. This time, a group of us (girls only), stayed at Villa Palma, a handsome 1920s villa, in tiny Gabbiana, with fine original tiled floors and stunning, uninterrupted views across the hills to the Apuan Alps from its pool.
The property belongs to Christopher Brooke and his spouse, Radio 4 presenter Sarah Montague; they serendipitously discovered Lunigiana recently: "It reminded us of Devon as it was forty years back," they comment. "Affordable compared to Tuscany with fewer crowds yet conveniently close—just one hour away from Pisa’s airport. It offers fantastic walks through varying landscapes along with delicious cuisine."
At this location, nature and cuisine blend seamlessly together. For instance, one day we went open-water swimming in a rocky inlet close to Comano, which was then followed by a remarkable meal at Casa Turchetti, a place that exudes both charm and sophistication. agriturismo Yet another day, we ascended to the hilltop fortress of Bagnone before treating ourselves to an incredible feast at the charming, family-operated Locanda da Lina.
The eatery is situated in a charming square within the village beneath the castle, where we enjoyed three impeccable dishes, such as freshly prepared truffle pasta, all for only £15 per individual.
On another day, we walked along the forest path that connects the two ancient, almost silent stone villages, Camporaghena and Torsana, passing by a lovely waterfall and an old mill on the way. During the Second World War there was heavy fighting throughout Lunigiana and in Camporaghena’s piazza, a moving tribute pays homage to Don Lino Baldini, who was executed by the Nazis in 1944 for ringing the church bells to warn the villagers of an impending Nazi reprisal.
We also walked on the Via Francigena, the pilgrim route from Canterbury to Rome. Our reward that day was a simple but excellent set lunch in a restaurant packed with local workers (always a good sign): Venelia in the village of Monti.
Although no distance in the Lunigiana seems far, the undulating and twisty lanes make travel more time-consuming compared to the broader white roads found throughout much of the province. However, this encourages a slower pace, which truly encapsulates what a trip to magnificent, leisurely, aromatic Tuscany should be about.
Essentials
Easyjet Flights from several UK airports to Pisa starting at £22 one-way. Villa Palma Gabbiana accommodates up to 10 guests across five bedrooms and features four bathrooms. The rental price starts at £3,500 per week.
Agriturismo Casa Turchetti In Comano, operated by a youthful duo—Federico and Silvia—is a charming establishment housed within a stunning former oratory. The property includes four double rooms, two apartments, and features a swimming pool. Guests can enjoy meals prepared masterfully by Federico either on the terrace or inside an evocative old dining area. Room rates start at £185 for doubles nightly.
Castello di Pontebosio Located close to Licciana Nardi, this hotel and spa sits along the shores of the River Tavarone. It occupies a beautifully renovated 17th-century fortress. Room rates start at £180 for doubles.
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