For Hermes, color has always been a distinct form of communication—intertwined with silks, applied to leather, and encircled around. its most coveted designs However, for the first time in the house’s history, this expertise in color becomes the focal point in their high jewelry line. The latest Hermès fine jewelry collection, titled Les Formes de la Couleur, boldly delves into a vibrant spectrum of light and shape. Here, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds—green, red, blue, and white—are reinvented into an utterly fresh expression.
Pierre Hardy, the creative director for Hermès jewellery, explains, “This range showcases color through various forms.” He adds, “My aim was to establish a robust, self-sufficient, and standalone brand presence.” This concept materializes in an array of bold, sculptural designs where geometric principles intersect with color theories alongside high jewelry techniques.
Hardy, who delved into color theory during his time at university, returned to this subject with renewed insight, employing it as the cornerstone for designs that question our perception of jewelry. Within the Portraits de la Couleur section, rubies are arranged into precise squares, whereas sapphires create intricate deep-blue circles, and beryl forms vibrant yellow triangles. Reflecting on these shapes, Hardy ponders, “What does it mean when red takes the shape of a square?” He suggests that such a configuration might evoke images reminiscent of a superhero’s symbol, an artistic masterpiece, or even a cherished recollection.
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The collection goes beyond mere structure by playing with textures and movements. Within the Fresh Paint series, the designs create an optical effect mimicking brush strokes on canvas, using both precious and semiprecious gemstones arranged into flowing, paint-like motifs across deep color gradations. In Arc en Couleurs, flexible bracelets and pendants glisten subtly through fine chromatic shifts; for instance, a particular necklace incorporates approximately 1,400 carefully chosen gems to produce a continuous rainbow appearance. These items are crafted to adapt to the contours of the wearer’s body, making them seem more like wearable sculptures than traditional jewelry. “My aim was to investigate all possible hues,” states Hardy. “Instead of limiting variety, my intention was to honor it.”
The collection incorporates scientific principles, particularly focusing on how light diffracts through various materials. For instance, the Supracolor necklace showcases this effect using rutilated quartz as a prism within its mesmerizing, geometric design, which exposes vibrant hues concealed underneath its exterior. In contrast, Hermès Diapré features emerald-cut diamonds alongside sapphires paired with shimmering mother-of-pearl, where these gemstones emit a gentle glow when set into detailed frameworks. Additionally, Color Flash adopts a contemporary aesthetic by employing pavé-set stones arranged in pixellated patterns of bright colors, resembling a static digital display.
This lineup represents a change in how Hermès tackles high-end jewelry—daring, innovative, and completely unapologetic about color. The pieces aren’t merely adornments; they ignite discussions. “My aim was to convey numerous concepts simultaneously,” states Hardy. “It’s perfectly fine to desire various things altogether.” Should this be indicative of the use of color at Hermès, then the potential for creativity seems boundless.
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The article initially appeared on the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), which serves as the premier source of news covering China and Asia.
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